Dark spots: how they are actually treated
Melasma, solar lentigines and the marks left by acne all share one thing: an excess of melanin in one place. But they are not treated the same way, nor do they respond at the same pace. Here we explain which type of spot you have and which depigmenting product fits each case.
First: work out which type of spot you have
This is the step almost everyone skips, and it explains why a product sometimes does not work: it simply was not meant for that type of spot.
Melasma
Symmetrical, diffuse patches on the cheeks, forehead or upper lip. A strong hormonal and sun-related component. It is the most stubborn and the most prone to coming back.
Solar lentigines
Small, well-defined spots on the face, décolletage and hands. They are sun exposure accumulated over the years.
Post-acne marks
Marks left behind by a spot, a wound or an irritation. They usually fade on their own, but the process can be sped up.
Uneven tone
There is no single spot, but the skin looks dull and uneven. It responds well to antioxidants and gentle resurfacing.
Where to start, depending on your case
Three different starting points, depending on how marked the pigmentation is and where you are right now.
Mild spots or uneven tone
You want to even out your tone and prevent, without committing to an intensive treatment.
Melan tran3x gel cream →Pronounced spots
You already have visible spots and want a daily concentrate that genuinely works.
Melan tran3x concentrate →Stubborn melasma
You have tried things that did not work and need a complete, phased method.
Discover the Cosmelan method →The depigmenting products we work with
From the daily corrector to the complete method, by way of sun protection formulated for skin prone to pigmentation.
Cosmelan home pack
Melasma · at-home phaseThe complete at-home programme of the cosmelan® method, with the continuity cream and the routine that goes with it.
View product →Melan tran3x concentrate
Intensive · tranexamic acidA depigmenting concentrate for visible spots, designed for regimens sustained over time.
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Melan tran3x gel cream
Daily useA light texture to work on tone gradually and hold the result over the long term.
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Mesoprotech melan 130+
Targeted sun protectionVery high protection formulated for skin prone to pigmentation. Without this, nothing else holds.
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Age element brightening cream
Radiance · anti-ageingA brightening cream that combines work on tone with everyday anti-ageing care.
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AOX Ferulic
Antioxidant · preventionVitamin C with ferulic acid for the morning: it curbs the oxidative damage that feeds the appearance of dark spots.
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Brightening peel booster
Resurfacing · glycolic acidChemical exfoliation that speeds up cell turnover and helps the other actives penetrate better.
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Brightening Booster Serum
Brightening serumA booster to add to your routine when the goal is more radiance and a more even tone.
View product →How a depigmenting treatment is planned
The order matters, and skipping the final phase is the most common reason dark spots come back.
Prepare and resurface
Proper cleansing and, where appropriate, gentle resurfacing so the depigmenting actives can do their job.
Correct
The depigmenting product itself, over months. It is the visible phase, but it does not work on its own.
Maintain
Once the spot has been corrected, the goal changes completely: keeping it from returning. This is where almost everyone eases off.
Without daily sun protection, none of this works
This is the rule with no exceptions. Radiation — including on cloudy days, in winter, and the visible light from screens — reactivates melanin production and can undo months of work in a few weeks. An SPF 50 every morning is not an add-on to a depigmenting treatment: it is a central part of it.
Not sure which type of spot you have?
Tell us where they appear, how long you have had them and what you have tried. We will point you to what fits your case before you spend on the wrong product.
Frequently asked questions
How long do dark spots take to fade?
Results on pigmentation are measured in months. You will typically start to see changes after 8–12 weeks of consistent use, and considerably longer with melasma. Any product promising results in days is worth treating with scepticism.
Can melasma be cured?
Melasma is managed rather than cured. The visible patch can be greatly reduced, but it tends to return with sun exposure or hormonal changes. That is why the maintenance phase is not optional.
Can I use depigmenting products in summer?
Intensive treatments are usually planned for the months with least sun exposure, and autumn is the usual time to start. In summer the focus shifts to maintaining and protecting, not correcting aggressively.
Can I combine depigmenting products with retinol?
You can, but sensibly. Stacking several resurfacing actives can irritate the skin and, paradoxically, create more pigmentation through inflammation. If you want to combine them, write to us and we will help you order your routine.
Do they work on spots on the hands and décolletage?
Yes, solar lentigines on the hands and décolletage respond to the same actives. Bear in mind these are areas with more exposure and less consistent sun protection, so they tend to be slower.
What happens if I stop the treatment halfway?
The pigmentation tends to return, especially if sun protection is dropped too. A gentler regimen you can keep up for months is better than a very intensive one you abandon after three weeks.
Cosmetic products are not medicines, and this page is not medical advice nor a substitute for assessment by a healthcare professional. If a spot has appeared recently, changes in shape, size or colour, or bleeds, see a dermatologist before starting any cosmetic treatment. If you are pregnant, breastfeeding or undergoing dermatological treatment, seek advice before starting a depigmenting regimen. Results vary depending on the type of pigmentation, the phototype and consistency in both application and sun protection.